It all started in a small village tucked on the shores of Lake Maggiore, surrounded by majestic mountains. It's also known for having the best gelato in the world.
From the village, we made our way to the Borromean Islands, three small islands sitting in the middle of Lake Maggiore that feel like they belong in a different century. The Borromeo family began shaping them in the 1500s, importing soil, rare plants, and stone to build baroque palaces and terraced gardens on what were once bare rocks. Today, white peacocks roam the grounds, orchids grow alongside centuries-old magnolias, and the whole place has the feeling of somewhere that shouldn't exist and yet does, right there in the middle of a lake. Daniela, a local guide with over 30 years on these islands, took us through privately, sharing the stories, the details, and the corners most visitors never find.
From one lake to another, we headed up the mountain above Bellagio, a terrace above the lake where the view does all the talking. Sunday lunch in Italy. The restaurant was full of locals having their Sunday lunch. Traditional food, local wine, and a breathtaking view. That afternoon we took the ferry from Bellagio to Varenna, crossing the lake as the light changed over the mountains. From there we made our way to our next home, the winery of Walter Menegola, tucked in the hills of Valtellina. A beautiful place to stay, and the kind of welcome you can't book.
We woke up to a view that doesn't need a filter, the picture below was taken straight from the bedroom window. After a homemade breakfast we headed back to the lake for a private boat tour. A stop at a restaurant facing the water that has been in the same family since anyone can remember. A visit to their cantina dated back to the 1300s, before heading back to Varenna, for a lazy afternoon enjoying the picturesque small town.
— Life is Good —
After an energizing homemade breakfast we headed out to the iconic terraced vineyards of Valtellina for a hike with Walter Menegola, who walked us through the history of a vineyard that has been in his family for four generations. He explained a way of life that most people never hear about, you cannot buy a vineyard here. It must be passed down from a family member, or to a fellow winemaker you trust to care for it. People here live in respect of nature's rhythm, and age is measured not in years but in harvests. After the hike we visited the cantina and sat down for a wine tasting with local products. Then, after a well deserved nap, Walter took us to a secret cantina reserved for locals, where we spent the afternoon drinking the best Franciacorta and hanging out with locals.
Another active day. We ventured into the gorgeous Val Gerola to meet Carlo, the owner of Storico Ribelle, the oldest cheese establishment in Valtellina and a Slow Food presidium. We hiked up to a small mountain village where the shepherds still live during the summer months, learned how the cheese is made the traditional way, in copper cauldrons, by hand, on alpine pastures, and of course, we tasted it. A cheese that can be aged for over ten years and has been made the same way for centuries. The kind of place and the kind of story you don't find on a tour itinerary. That evening, Walter surprised us with a fun blind wine tasting from his personal collection, bottles he keeps only for friends and family. No labels, no hints. Just wine, good company, and a lot of wrong guesses.
Saying goodbye to Walter was harder than expected. The guys made a serious attempt to stay, offering to work the harvest. The ladies had other plans. We made our way to St. Moritz through Val Chiavenna, one of those drives where you stop talking and just enjoying the breath taking views. From there we boarded the Bernina Express, the highest train ride in Europe, UNESCO protected, crossing the Alps in a way no car can replicate. The evening ended in a small family restaurant tucked among the vineyards. The best meal of the trip, and we had some good ones.
The next morning we woke up to the quiet of our agriturismo, surrounded by the mountains. After a few very active days, it was time to slow down. We spent the morning at Terme Bagni Vecchi di Bormio, thermal baths built into the rock above Bormio, with panoramic pools and ancient caves carved into the rock. People have been coming here for over 2,000 years. The Romans built the first baths when they found hot springs bursting from the ground high in the Alps. Leonardo Da Vinci came to soak in these same waters. We figured we should too. That afternoon we found a small enoteca tucked in the historic center of Bormio, sat down with a great Franciacorta, and let the day wind down slowly. Then another four course dinner. Because that's just what you do.
The last day of our trip we headed out for one final hike in the Stelvio National Park, one of the largest national parks in the Alps. Alice, our local guide, led us through a trail that ended at a mountain hut where we sat down for a well deserved meal. Along the way she shared the history of the park, the animals, the plants, the kind of knowledge that makes a hike feel like something more than just walking. That evening we gathered for one last dinner at the agriturismo. By the end of the table the question was already going around, when is the next one?
